Hyderabad: A tourist can discover the thrill of riding a wondrous toy train that opens a window to panoramic vistas during the three-and-a-half-hour journey from Mettupalayam to Ooty. The voyage offers an exotic and unparalleled train travel experience. Ooty is a paradise for travel enthusiasts seeking tranquility amidst scenic landmarks.
Ooty, a fabled travel getaway, can be reached by road or rail. However, boarding the toy train provides a unique experience — there is a sudden romance in the air and a spring in the step. It is love at first sight as travelers journey from Ooty to Ketti, crisscrossing the celebrated Nilgiri Mountains. The train winds through tunnels, curves, and bridges, covering 46 km from Mettupalayam at the foothills to Ooty atop the lofty peaks. Passengers are treated to breathtaking views of terraced green tea plantations, steep valleys, and towering swaying trees. For its sheer grandeur, this enthralling expedition has rightfully been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the only heritage train operating at the highest elevation in Southern India.
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway, located in the southern state of Tamil Nadu, was initially operated by the Madras Railway. It stands as a tribute to the robust mechanical and civil engineering prowess of British rule, as the railway continues to rely on its fleet of steam locomotives — instantly transporting travelers back to a bygone era of heritage and charm.
The toy train first began operations between Coonoor and Mettupalayam in 1899 — over a century ago. It served to connect the British army establishment at Wellington, providing transportation and vital supplies. The key pillars of British control in India were the civil administration, railways, police, and postal systems. After the First War of Independence in 1857, the British strengthened these institutions to assert their authority.
Commercial considerations later motivated the railway planners to extend this enchanting line up to Ooty in 1908, both to cross-subsidize operations and to expand the empire’s reach. The maiden passenger service between Ooty and Coonoor was inaugurated on October 15, 1908.
Ooty, also known as Udhagamandalam, is a hill station nestled amidst dense forests and an abundance of eucalyptus trees. The oil extracted from these trees works like a natural remedy for colds and fevers.
In pre-independence India, Ooty was largely a British enclave — a retreat from the heat and humidity of the Madras Presidency. The poet Alfred Tennyson described it as having the “sweet half-English air of Neilgherry.” Lord Lytton, the then Viceroy of India, found in Ooty “Hertfordshire lanes, Devonshire downs, Westmoreland lakes, Scotch trout streams, and Lusitanian views,” all reminiscent of his English homeland.
There are several attractions to witness along the way — from the spectacular mountain range to a refreshing halt at Coonoor and the final destination of Ooty, all traversed by the remarkable rack-and-pinion rail system. Some years ago, traction between Coonoor and Ooty was changed from steam to diesel, sparking protests from local residents who were reluctant to sever ties with their cherished past.
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway (NMR) remains a major tourist attraction. Nearly five lakh people travel each year on this toy train. Departing from Mettupalayam at 7:30 a.m., it snakes through serpentine bends and scenic curves, halting at Hilligrove, Coonoor, Wellington, Aruvankadu, Ketti, and Lovedale before reaching Udhagamandalam (Ooty).
Whenever the train makes an unexpected stop, passengers often delight in plucking flowers from nearby trees. On steep slopes, the engine gives a familiar jerk as it gains momentum to push the train uphill. Occasionally, a fallen eucalyptus tree may block the track, causing brief halts of 15–20 minutes while workers clear the path — an inconvenience that adds a touch of adventure to the journey.
Vintage steam engines still ply part of the route. The compact coaches, divided into multiple coupes with doors on either side, move leisurely at an average speed of 10–12 km/h. Nobody seems to be in a hurry — time feels suspended, offering a nostalgic glimpse into British India before the advent of modern haste.
The first two stations, Lovedale and Ketti, are tucked deep within the woods, surrounded by tall eucalyptus trees. Their charming station houses resemble rustic log cabins, and birdsong fills the tranquil air.
Even the railway’s signaling evokes the colonial past — old semaphore signals stand along the route instead of modern electric ones. At every station, the driver hands over a bamboo hoop containing a metallic tablet — a “token” confirming the train’s safe arrival.
Coonoor, home to the Wellington Staff College, connects travelers to modern India. Here, passengers can observe the steam engine coupling with the train — a fascinating sight of gauges, pipes, knobs, and analog meters straight out of a 19th-century science fiction novel.
After a relaxed climb through the misty slopes, the train finally rolls into Ooty station by late afternoon. Passengers look back at the silhouette of the Nilgiris — mist-clad, majestic, and unforgettable.
“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end,” wrote Ursula K. Le Guin — a fitting reflection for this timeless ride through the blue mountains.
About the Author
Ravi Valluri is Advisor, Krishnapatnam Railway Company Limited. He has authored both fiction and non-fiction works and serves as a faculty member at the Art of Living.
His latest book is Sita to Abhaya: Have Things Changed?
He can be reached at valluri.ravi@gmail.com or on WhatsApp at 9618564024.